Finding the route…
Finding the route…
Lessons learned the hard way, so you don't have to.

Gulmit to the Pakistan–China border at 4,693 m: the Rs 500 Dih ticket, low oxygen, an ATM that didn't work, my first yak ride, Pak Army at zero point and a Rs 1,200 yak burger – with every price I paid.

Umrah explained practically, the way I filmed it in Masjid al-Haram: Ihram and Talbiyah, wudu and where to leave your shoes, starting Tawaf at the Black Stone, Zamzam, Sa'i between Safa and Marwa, and Halq or Qasr.

Practical Umrah tips from my time in Makkah and Madinah: where to get a 35–50 riyal ride to Madinah, when Jannat al-Mu'alla opens, the As-Safiyyah Museum, street markets and changing money.