Khunjerab Pass: Pakistan–China Border at 4,693 m – Ticket, Yak Ride, ATM and Real Costs (2026 Guide)

Our day started in Gulmit, in Gojal, Upper Hunza. A local brother told me something I didn't believe at first: people here go to China more easily than to Lahore. "China hamara doosra ghar hai," he said – with a border pass, locals cross for trade and work. Many of them have never been to Lahore, but they've been to China.

Before leaving we visited Gulmit's 400-year-old mosque, built from wood and stone. The doors are very small. Our guide said this was on purpose: small doors keep the winter cold out. We also tried the local apricots, and on the way I tested a Markhor energy drink (Rs 300). My honest review: it tasted like a Rs 80 Booster.

If you are coming up the Karakoram Highway from Naran and Babusar, my Northern Pakistan road trip guide covers that part of the journey.

The road goes Gulmit → Sost → Dih check post → Khunjerab Pass. Dih check post is the start of Khunjerab National Park. Here we paid Rs 500 per person for the entry ticket – that was the price on our filming day, so check before you go.

With the ticket you get a bag for your rubbish. Please use it. Sadly, I still saw bottles thrown on the mountainside. Whatever you take up, bring it back down.

After Dih the Karakoram Highway climbs through some of the most beautiful scenery I've filmed in Pakistan: glacier valleys, snowy peaks, and big Chinese trade trucks coming down towards Pakistan. We also tried to spot markhor on the slopes – keep your eyes on the cliffs.

Within a few minutes at the top, my head felt heavy. Oxygen is low at Khunjerab Pass, and you feel it.

• Walk slowly; don't run around for photos.
• Drink water.
• Carry a jacket – it's cold even in July.
• If someone in your group feels unwell, go back down. Altitude is not a joke.

Near the border stands what people call the world's highest ATM. Of course I had to try it. My card didn't work, and someone standing there warned me that cards can get stuck in it.

The lesson is simple: carry cash. Don't depend on this ATM for your yak ride or your lunch.

Decorated yaks wait near the parking, with colourful saddles. On our day:

It was my first yak ride. A little scary, very fun. The yak owners speak Wakhi among themselves – ask them a few words; they're happy to teach.

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This is the moment everyone comes for. At the zero point you stand at Pakistan's gate, and right in front of you is China's huge border gate, with Chinese visitors waving flags on the other side of the fence. You can't cross or meet them – but you can wave back.

I met Manzoor Hussain of the Pakistan Army. Their duty here is 24 hours, 7 days a week. He told me they get leave every month and a half or two. Respect.

Trade trucks between Pakistan and China pass through this very gate. Since December 2024 the pass has been open year-round for trade and travel, instead of only from April to November (Dawn). In winter, though, expect heavy snow and check the road first.

Then a group of kids at the fence started shouting "Pakistan Zindabad!" – and everyone joined in. Goosebumps.

At the "I ❤ Pakistan" sign I realised something. Most people come up, take ten photos and leave. The best memory of my day wasn't a photo – it was the yak ride and the conversation with the soldier. Do at least one activity. That's what makes the trip worth the long drive.

Also good to know: immigration is not at the border. Pakistan's immigration for travellers going to China is in Sost.

On the way down we found animal bones by the road – nobody could tell us whose – and a marmot peeking out of its burrow.

Then the real tour drama: the other van of our group broke down. Both groups – around 40 people – squeezed into one coaster for the rest of the way. If you travel with a tour company, ask what happens when a vehicle breaks down. It happens more often than they tell you.

On the way back we stopped at Sost bazaar, the last town before the border, where goods coming from China clear customs. At a restaurant the yak burger cost Rs 1,200. A local told us why: yak prices have jumped from around 50 thousand to 5–6 lakh rupees.

My honest verdict: try the yak pulao, skip the burger.

1. Carry cash – the ATM may not work.
2. Carry a jacket, water and sunglasses – the sun is strong and it's cold.
3. Go slow at 4,693 m; low oxygen hits fast.
4. Keep the Rs 500 ticket and use the rubbish bag.
5. Do one activity – yak ride, a chat with the soldiers – not only photos.
6. Immigration is in Sost if you're actually crossing into China.
7. With a tour company, ask what's included and what happens if a vehicle breaks down.

Prices are what I paid in July 2026. They can change, so check before you go.

So, is Khunjerab Pass worth it? Yes. The views are unreal, and standing at Pakistan's last border while kids shout "Pakistan Zindabad" is something I won't forget. Just plan for the altitude, the cold, the long drive and cash – and do something more than take photos. Watch the full vlog on Travel with Tayab, and if you're planning Hunza, read my Altit Fort Hunza guide too. New here? Who is Hafiz Tayyab?